The colorful Airbus 320 operated by Bangkok Airways bounced its way from Siem Reap to Bangkok. On this 40 minute flight we were treated to a small snack, coffee and tea service as well as video programing on the overhead monitors. Amazing service when compared to airlines in the States, standard service for Asia. Perfectly on-time we touched down at Suvarnabumi Airport (pronounced Soo-wanna-poom). I had a few hours to kill as I waited for a buddy to arrive from Phuket. Upon his arrival and transfers to the city sorted out, we were eventually speeding through very little traffic to the Sukhumvit in downtown Bangkok.
This was my third trip to Thailand and was eagerly awaiting incredible Thai food and was anxious to get started in meeting that goal. Epic fail! Our first meal turned out to be Chinese food. I spotted a hole in the wall restaurant that seemed busy with locals and with a sign I couldn't read, I figured it couldn't be that bad. Well, it wasn't all that bad, it's just that it wasn't Thai! Nothing that sharing a big bottle of Singha couldn't fix however. Bellies full, we proceeded to sort out formalities for our first few days in Thailand using the free WiFi in the lobby of our two month old hotel, The Four Points Sheraton Bangkok.
One stop I always make in Bangkok is the MBK Mall and its 4th floor food court. Not only did I want to eat here, I wanted to do a little bargain hunting. A relatively quick and cool ride on the Skytrain later, we were herding with the masses as we all made our way towards MBK. The 4th floor food court is never a disappointment. With its large variety of Thai cuisine done up in a street vendor style there is just about something for every one's appetite. There's even some Chinese and Vietnamese thrown in there for good measure too. This of course, is just one of a few food courts in the mall, which also competes for food business with various western fast food chains and sit down restaurants of various cuisines. What makes the 4th floor food court unique is its coupon payment system. One simply approaches a central kiosk with their Bhat and exchanges them for coupons of various denominations. These coupons are the "currency" of the food court. This increases hygiene and efficiency by reducing the need for the vendors to handle money and maintain a cash register system. As usual, the food did not disappoint, though vendors did start closing far earlier than their 9pm closing time, which prevented me from exposing durian, every ones favorite smelly fruit, to by buddy. Maybe next time. I did however succeed in getting my camera viewing screen covered with a sleek protective covering and also got my iPhone completely covered. Not a bad deal for $20 and the result is much better than anything I could do. After browsing the seedy and chaotic Patpong night market we headed back to the hotel via tuktuk and hit the sack. An early morning would greet us for our day trip to Ayuthaya.
After some coffee and croissants we were soon making our way via the clean and efficient Skytrain to the Hualamphong train station. Just in time for the next train, we bought our tickets, said our kop kun krups and settled into the open seating on our local train. The journey would take only ninety minutes and started by winding through Bangkok's busy streets before breaking out of the craziness and cacophony into the countryside just to the north of the Capitol. I really enjoy taking the local trains as it allows a glimpse into the lives of the locals. In our compartment there were a few travelers, a Thai family making a field trip to Ayuthya as well as other locals going to visit friends or family or perhaps to do business. Either way, it was a nice ride. After alighting at the station, we walked to the little pier, paid our $.08, and took the boat to the other side of the river, with landfall on the island portion of the city. Ayuthaya sits on the confluence of three rivers and this fabled city once played an important part in the kingdoms regional dominance.
Our plan was to rent bicycles and pedal around the sights. First things first however. Lunch! We found a place overflowing with locals and I insisted we eat there. With all eyes on us, the Farang, we took our seats and I confidently ordered our noodle salads and bottles of pop to wash it down. This was probably the best meal I ate on this particular trip to Thailand. After refueling, we set out to explore what the city had to offer. First up was a visit to Wat Pra Si Sanphet. This place was originally the spot for the Royal Palace until the 15th century. Most of what is left revolves around spectacular ruins of red brick and three dominating bell shaped Chedi. This not being an American suburb, the red brick was clearly not how the builders intended visitors to see their buildings so many centuries later. Once adorned with gold, the vagaries of war, time and pillaging by Burmese conquerors have taken their toll. An impressive compound none the less. Next door, we'd find the largest bronzed seated Buddha in Thailand. Impressive at every angle, it was surrounded by smaller gilded busts and sitting politely in-front on the ruby red carpet were devout Buddhist saying their prayers. After wandering around what looked like it would be a bustling market at night and trying some local snacks we hopped back on the bikes and headed for the Wat Phra Mahathat where we'd find a curious image of Buddha tangled with tree roots. Sufficiently hot and sunburned we made our way via bike back to the pier for our water taxi back to the train station and the return journey to Bangkok. Taking a tip from a guidebook, we hopped off the train and connected to the subway and beat most of the crushing crowds anticipated at Hualamphong station.
Having been refreshed by some freshly squeezed orange juice from a street vendor and a very cold and powerful shower back at the room we headed back to MBK mall for dinner and to complete some errands. I know, not very original, but I felt we didn't get the full MBK experience the night before. This time, all the vendors were open, though we did skip the durian. Satisfied with dinner I set out to find a barber or hair salon to trim my out of control itching beard of over three weeks. It took some time with hand gestures, demonstration and negotiating with four different people to convince them to trim my beard. All trimmed up, we left the mall to finish up some souvenir shopping for my buddy and we made our way back to the Four Points. Another early morning was on tap, with a train journey to Kanchanaburi, west of Bangkok.
Fueled once again by croissant and coffee we soon found ourselves in a bright pink taxi comfortably navigating the light traffic of Bangkok ahead of the morning rush hour. That peace and tranquility was dashed when we pulled up to a random Skytrain station that was most definitely NOT the Bangkok North (Thonburi) train station. Rewind to the conversation I had with the Concierge just 45 minutes earlier. "We need to go to Thonbori train station, we're going to Kanchanaburi." "Oh yes sir, I'll tell the taxi driver for you." Okay, so, having had that understanding, I had no doubts we'd end up in the right place. Safely assuming the conversation with the cab driver took place in Thai, what could possibly go wrong? It turns out that we were dropped off at a Skytrain station that SOUNDED like Thonburi, but was indeed not where we needed to be. Frustrated with nobody knowing how to read a map and not exactly knowing where we were, the time crunch began to be ever apparent. We had one shot at a 745am train and it was approaching 730am. Having allowed nearly an hour for this journey we had only a little cushion built into our schedule. Finally, we were able to get a taxi driver to understand where we needed to go and we sped off, this time in a lime green taxi, into the now well developed morning rush hour. It turns out that these taxi drivers, who speak little or no English, know the train station as its called in English and not Thai. Who would have ever guessed? I felt like I was on the Amazing Race! Thankfully we had a good taxi driver that was aggressive in his dodging of other cars and people and we rolled up to the proper station at 740am. Whew. This is where we learned that train timing is merely a suggestion in Thailand. Our 745am train pulled out of the station sometime just after 8am.
As we trundled over the tracks, leaving Bangkok behind us all I could think about was how nice it was to leave crazy Bangkok, what kind of food we'd find on the train and how my stomach was killing me! Bright green rice paddies, golden Wats, random water buffalo, small villages and playing children were some highlights as we bounced and bobbled our way towards Kanchanburi. Our goal was to explore the area made famous by the post WWII book/movie called "The Bridge Over the River Kwai." Upon arrival into hot, sunny and steamy Kanchanaburi we quickly found a place to sleep, nestled right on the River Kwai, had lunch and sorted out the days agenda. We decided to hire a driver to drive us to Hell Fire pass and we'd take the train back. Thanks to the suggestions on the great website called seat61.com everything worked out perfectly. The drive to Hell Fire pass was a blur as our taxi driver appreciated our time constraints and therefore probably broke every traffic law that the Kingdom has on the books.
During WWII the Japanese needed to find access to Burma (now Myanmar) and India for their goods transportation as well as their future endeavors after conquering all over Southeast Asia. The dangerous straits of Melakka around Singapore was too much of a risk, so the next best thing was to dig a railway cutting through the Western mountains in Thailand ending in Burma. Having a very short time frame to accomplish this, the Japanese enlisted prisoners of war from Australia and England to build their railway. They were joined by Malay, Siamese and Indian slaves and together they built what is known as the "Death Railway." In just 16 months, these men working amid disease, poor weather, exhaustion, starvation and abuse, completed the railroad in record time. Now Japan had its access to Burma. One particular piece of the railway is the Konyu Cut, or Hellfire pass. It was given the nickname Hellfire pass because at night as seen from a distance, the fires lit to illuminate the work site combined with the conditions the men endured, could be considered hell. Nearly 100,000 men died building this railway. Today, there is a very nice museum jointly built by the Australian and Thai governments to commemorate those who sacrificed their lives for this project. This is one of the most unknown stories of WWII and having had the chance to visit the museum and hike down the actual path cut by these POWs, was a very sobering and chilling experience.
Having paid our respects we made our way to the end (beginning) of the operational portion of the original Death Railway to await our train back to Kanchanaburi. This journey would be another fun experience riding the local train. At one point only a Monk dressed in orange robes joined us in our car of yellow painted wooden seats and open windows. As we made our way through the countryside all I could imagine were the men who slaved away laying the very track we were riding on. As the sun set, we pulled into Kanchanaburi and rolled across the bridge that spanned the river Kwai. The original bridge was partially destroyed in WWII but has subsequently been rebuilt. It is nondescript and not of any architectural excitement. It is however, a poignant symbol of the past. The bridge was made famous by the book "Bridge Over the River Kwai" written by Pierre Boulle and subsequent movie directed by David Lean. Interestingly the river that the bridge spans was never originally called Kwai. Being the gracious and polite people that the Thai are, they just changed the name of the river to reflect the book, making the book accurate. Having started in Bangkok very early that morning, it was time for dinner and an early night.
The next morning was spent on bikes, in the hot sun, exploring what the small town had to offer. Not before however, a decent breakfast on the terrace next to the pool and river. We visited the bridge once again, walked around and across it and then visited the Thailand-Burma Railway Center which has another comprehensive overview of the history behind the Death Railway. Soon, it was time to return the bikes and head towards the train station for our 242pm train. The train finally arrived at nearly 5pm! It was a "creeping" delay, as we use in airline parlance. The delay crept, every 30 minutes, so it made leaving the train station impossible. We were exposed to more "Thai time" and since we were on vacation and had plenty of time before our 10pm flight to Chiang Mai, I wasn't worried. I pulled up a bench, rolled up my sleeves and took a nap. I also chatted with other travelers and locals. It was a fine way to spend the afternoon. Finally the train pulled into the station and we were underway towards Bangkok. As we jostled, bumped and shimmied eastbound, I was captivated as life passed me by. iPod playing in my ears and wind in my face, I found myself with an uncontrollable smile. I kept asking myself, how much better can it get? As the English author Ford Maddox Ford wrote about train travel, " One, sees too, so many bits of uncompleted life." This proved true for me on this and all my recent train journeys. We roll through towns and get only a glimpse or a snapshot, of someones life. The Mother and her child walking into the store. The old couple walking together down the river. The group of kids playing together in the park. Each individual has a whole life to deal with. The child with his or her future. The old man that reminisces and tells stories. The mother with trepidation and concern for the future of her child. Yet, we only see one moment. The fun part is imagining what they're thinking as we take a brief peak into their lives, as the train rolls by. The other thing I found fun was waving at the crowds that gathered to watch our train pass them. Whether they were in an intersection held back by the train crossing or kids playing in the filed next to the tracks they took an interest. People still seem excited to see trains. They wave. We wave. How come nobody waves at the passing car? or goods truck? There's something romantic and glamorous about trains, I think. No matter how tattered, bare bones or luxurious, people still stop to watch the train go by. Soon, we were pulling into Thonburi station, excuse me, Bangkok North to the Thai. Next stop... Suvarnabhumi Airport.
After dealing with Bangkok Friday night traffic, navigating the new Airport Express trains which are the epitome of government excess and bureaucracy, we made our way to the Bangkok Airways check-in area. All set to go, we needed food. Bangkok Airport food FAIL! The only food once inside security in the domestic terminal was Burger King. Starving, I gave into my personal rule of never consuming western chain fast food while abroad, I inhaled my chicken sandwich and fries. Secretly, just between you and me, it was really good and hit the spot! After a short flight with great service again by the folks at Bangkok Airways, we were touching down in Chiang Mai. Just after midnight we made it to our very nicely air conditioned and plush room at our splurge hotel, Le Meridien.
I got to sleep in just a little bit and enjoy the comfortable bed, just an hour longer than my buddy. He went to play with Elephants. For me, I wanted to cook. I spent the day at the Siam Rice Cookery School led by Nancy and Bunpot Chaimonghol. After touring a large market we proceeded to their house to get started on the days cooking. I felt as if I was invited over to a friends house to cook. They were warm and made us feel very welcome. There were two groups of 6 rotating throughout the day. The neat feature about this cookery school is that we got to pick our own individual menus. I chose Tom Yam soup, Pad Thai, Musamun curry, Som Tum (papaya salad), stir fried chicken with ginger and finally mango and sweet sticky rice for desert. Throughout the day we were taught the secrets to good Thai cooking, including techniques and usage of spices and herbs. We also got to grind our own curry paste using a traditional mortar and pestle. There was entirely too much food to eat! It was however a great day and I appreciated the personalized attention that Bunpot and Nancy gave us. I have my official certificate to prove I am ready to compete on Top Chef, Iron Chef or be gainfully employed in the best Thai restaurants around the world. Okay... maybe not. But I do have some new skills to put to good use! Towards the end of the day, I wasn't feeling that great and we decided that we'd just eat in the hotel and exchange stories about our individual days. Normally, I hate eating in the hotel restaurants, as I view it as a cop out and an excuse. In this case, I made an exception as I wasn't feel well, as mentioned and we dined on gourmet wood fired pizza and sipped Singha beers at the bar. We called it an early night.
Doi Sutep and a cooking class were two things I came to Chiang Mai to do on this trip. Having mastered Thai cooking, we had to make the trek to the top of the mountain and explore Doi Sutep, one of the North's most sacred temples. With a hazy, but birds eye view of Chiang Mai we soaked in the temple and all its gilded golden glory. Still not feeling very well and very likely dehydrated we headed back to the hotel and I took a much needed siesta. That night for dinner we went to a seafood restaurant recommended by a British couple. Lesson learned? Never take restaurant advice in Thailand from a British tourist. Enough said. As this was our last evening in Thailand, we made the most of it. Again, nothing a few Singha's couldn't cure. I would be resuming the solo travel and leaving for Lao the following day and my buddy would be making his way back to Bangkok for the onward journey home.
I left Thailand with excitement as I was about to embark on the most anticipated and unfamiliar part of my journey. That week in Thailand was nice. I saw new things and had some nice experiences. I was slightly disappointed however, in the food. Having had much better food on previous trips and on the heels of incredible cuisine in Vietnam and Cambodia, perhaps my expectations were too high. I don't know. As I boarded my Lao Airlines ATR, I said a prayer and asked for traveling mercies as I made my way towards the mystery, tranquility and comparatively unexplored and exposed Peoples Democratic Republic of Lao.
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Cambodia
I knew as soon as the door opened to my Vietnam Airlines Airbus 320 that the mild temperatures of Vietnam were a thing of the past. As I made my way down the stairs the humidity was ever apparent and so was the heat. It was great.
The pre arranged car and driver from the Palm Villages Resort were waiting for my arrival. As we made our way to the resort in the dark, down unpaved dirt roads, I knew my lodging would be remote. I wasn't to realize exactly how remote until the following morning. Upon arrival I was greeted with smiles and warm greetings. A trend that would repeat itself not only at this resort, but throughout my entire stay in Cambodia.
I settled into my bamboo hut, complete with air conditioning, satellite TV and running water and couldn't help but feel lonely and a little bit blue. For the previous two weeks I had traveled Vietnam with two buddies that I barely knew at the start of the trip but in my estimation became fast friends with by the end of our travels together. There I sat, alone. It was a sinking feeling that I dread after having a great experience. I call it the "let down" feeling. I was only two weeks into my five weeks of travel, so I had to muster up the energy and ambition to press on with my travels. But hey, a guy can reminisce can't he?
After a much enjoyed sleep in, I awoke at 10am and rolled out of bed to the breakfast table. As it would repeat itself each morning, the tables were adorned with fresh flowers from the resorts garden. I dined on traditional Kmher rice porridge and while eating hot soup in hot weather wasn't the most comfortable of things, the food did not disappoint. Another thing that would repeat itself with great consistency. My plan was to visit the famous temples of Angkor throughout the course of three days starting with the earliest of temples leading up to the grand daddy of them all, Angkor Wat, deemed unofficially, the eighth wonder of the world. With my plan loosely prepared, I set out for my temple visits. My hired tuktuk driver drove me around for three days from wat to wat, dodging tourists, buffalos and cows. It's worth noting that tuktuks all over the world come in various forms. The ones in Cambodia are almost like a modern horse and buggy. The driver rides a motorcycle with a specially adapted hitch, in which the buggy portion, where the passenger sits is attached. Comfortable on paved roads and a jarring experience on unpaved roads.
The first day was spent exploring the Rulous group which were built in the late ninth century and represent the beginning of classical Khmer art. What amazed me is that for over eleven centuries of weather, war and pillaging these structures have maintained some sort of original appearance. Granted, the gold and ornaments are long gone, but while one walks about the ruins you can just imagine the daily activities at these great structures.
A much needed lunch break was needed and I headed into the town of Siem Reap. After dining on my first Amok, a traditional Khmer dish that comes in infinite forms, it was time to wander around the town. After about an hour, I was so glad I chose to stay at the Palm Villages resort. My bamboo hut was sheltered from the hustle, bustle and din of the tourist beat. Instead of horns, pollution and constant hawking I relished in the tranquility of birds, chanting monks and fragrant flowers. There is nothing all that noteworthy of the town itself, other than it caters to the traveler exploring Cambodia. One can find all sorts of cuisine, bars, galleries, shops and massage parlors. At this point on my trip, I wanted none of that. I wrapped up the day with a hike up to Phnom Bakheng and to catch the sunset. Unfortunately, I wasn't the only one with the same idea. Crowds aside, Phnom Bakheng was another interesting crumbling structure that was being painfully restored. It was built by Yasovarman I and was one of many wats that were built to mimic the mythical Mt. Meru. While the sun set, it hid behind clouds for most of its show rendering money shot photos impossible. Unable to view a proper sunset, I started hiking back down in an attempt to beat the crowds. I hopped back into my tuktuk and went back to the resort to clean up and feast on their amazing version of Fish Amok. Steamed perfectly in banana leaves with herbs and spices it was worth the thirty minute wait. To round out the meal I had the best rice and banana pudding I have ever had. Sweet, pasty and warm, it was a real treat.
Day two started earlier than day one with another fine breakfast in the restaurant. Fresh fruit, pancakes and freshly squeezed orange juice prepared me for my day. Eager to see Angkor Thom, I got into my tuktuk for another days of "watting around." Angkor Thom is a ten square kilometer fortified city built by Javayarman VII in the twelfth century and basically took all day to visit. I visited Bayon, the structure covered in 216 smiling faces said to represent the King himself. At every turn, there's a face to greet you and approvingly guide you throughout your exploration of the Bayon. Next up was Baphuon, Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King. All sites were of incredible proportion and represented the grand architecture of the period. After a much needed lunch break and cool down, I continued my "watting" with visits to Preah Khan, Preah Neak Pean and Pre rup. Feeling extremely watted out, it was time to call it a day. I guess you could say I was slightly overwhelmed. It was incredibly hot and all the sites started to look the same and I found myself starting to feel like I was just going through the motions. The day ended with another incredible meal at the Palm Village. In keeping with my desire to sample as much local Khmer cuisine I had a traditional feast of noodles, soup and vegetables.
Day three started at 5am with a tuktuk ride in the dark to Angkor Wat. Today was the day that all my "watting" was building up to. It began with the most breathtaking sunrise over Angkor Wat. For some silly reason I under estimated the eagerness of all the travelers to Angkor. I thought for sure I would be one of only a few to crazily get up at such an hour just to see a sunrise. Well, I was wrong. While the crowds were not the worst I'd seen, there were more people than I was expecting. Thankfully, I had arrived by 530am and I was able to get a good vantage point. While we waited, the flashbulbs were flashing as people prepared for the main event. Around me a Japanese man thought he was scoring a prime viewing spot. He soon realized why nobody was there. It was where an army of ants decided hang out and they showed him who was there first! For 45 minutes while we waited for the sun to rise, monks at a nearby monastery provided unintended entertainment for the crowd. Another piece of entertainment for me was just to watch the crowd. The countries represented were numerous and it was interesting to watch the excitement on the faces of the travelers. It was also exiting to watch the bizarre things people do when in a crowded setting.
The sun was fully up by 7am and most of the crowds had dispersed. I took this opportunity to go inside Angkor Wat and view it with minimal travelers bustling about. Angkor Wat is a grand structure and considered the heart and soul of Cambodia. It appears on the Cambodian flag, which interestingly, is the only flag in the world that has a man made structure on it. Angkor Wat was never abandoned and has been in some form of continuous use since it was built in the twelfth century. By 8am I was heading back to my bed for breakfast and a nap. After relaxing, sorting out some details for my onward journey into Thailand and a hearty lunch, it was time to resume my watting. I realized I hadn't paid a visit to Ta Prohm, the crumbling structure strangled by the jungle made famous by the movie Tomb Raider, starring Angelina Jolie. Wandering around here I couldn't help but feel like Indiana Jones on some great adventure set in the middle of the jungles of Cambodia. Finally, in a quest to achieve great photos of Angkor Wat and now that the lighting would be favorable for such frontal photos I headed back to the grande dame of Wats. Unfortunately, since it was the dry season I wasn't able to capture the reflection photos I had in mind. Also, a thunderstorm was approaching, rendering the sky black and grey. As the wind picked up, I attempted to capture as many quality pictures as I could and as put my camera away and stepped out through the entrance, the heavens unloaded and it started to pour. I headed back to the resort to relax for the rest of the afternoon until dinner enjoying a full body massage by the pool. Dinner was another traditional Khmer dish of fish curry with rice. Once again, amazing.
Morning came quickly and I was on my way to the airport for my flight to Thailand, the land of smiles. As I reflect on my visit to Cambodia I can't help but be encouraged by the optimism the people portray. The tumultuous history in Cambodia has shaped its people and today, despite their dark history are looking to the future as their country continues to develop. The ancient structures that I visited were a reminder of the periods of glory throughout the centuries and the ingenuity, resourcefulness and intelligence of the people. Hopefully todays Cambodia can embrace those traits and press on into the future and find its footing on the world stage.
The pre arranged car and driver from the Palm Villages Resort were waiting for my arrival. As we made our way to the resort in the dark, down unpaved dirt roads, I knew my lodging would be remote. I wasn't to realize exactly how remote until the following morning. Upon arrival I was greeted with smiles and warm greetings. A trend that would repeat itself not only at this resort, but throughout my entire stay in Cambodia.
I settled into my bamboo hut, complete with air conditioning, satellite TV and running water and couldn't help but feel lonely and a little bit blue. For the previous two weeks I had traveled Vietnam with two buddies that I barely knew at the start of the trip but in my estimation became fast friends with by the end of our travels together. There I sat, alone. It was a sinking feeling that I dread after having a great experience. I call it the "let down" feeling. I was only two weeks into my five weeks of travel, so I had to muster up the energy and ambition to press on with my travels. But hey, a guy can reminisce can't he?
After a much enjoyed sleep in, I awoke at 10am and rolled out of bed to the breakfast table. As it would repeat itself each morning, the tables were adorned with fresh flowers from the resorts garden. I dined on traditional Kmher rice porridge and while eating hot soup in hot weather wasn't the most comfortable of things, the food did not disappoint. Another thing that would repeat itself with great consistency. My plan was to visit the famous temples of Angkor throughout the course of three days starting with the earliest of temples leading up to the grand daddy of them all, Angkor Wat, deemed unofficially, the eighth wonder of the world. With my plan loosely prepared, I set out for my temple visits. My hired tuktuk driver drove me around for three days from wat to wat, dodging tourists, buffalos and cows. It's worth noting that tuktuks all over the world come in various forms. The ones in Cambodia are almost like a modern horse and buggy. The driver rides a motorcycle with a specially adapted hitch, in which the buggy portion, where the passenger sits is attached. Comfortable on paved roads and a jarring experience on unpaved roads.
The first day was spent exploring the Rulous group which were built in the late ninth century and represent the beginning of classical Khmer art. What amazed me is that for over eleven centuries of weather, war and pillaging these structures have maintained some sort of original appearance. Granted, the gold and ornaments are long gone, but while one walks about the ruins you can just imagine the daily activities at these great structures.
A much needed lunch break was needed and I headed into the town of Siem Reap. After dining on my first Amok, a traditional Khmer dish that comes in infinite forms, it was time to wander around the town. After about an hour, I was so glad I chose to stay at the Palm Villages resort. My bamboo hut was sheltered from the hustle, bustle and din of the tourist beat. Instead of horns, pollution and constant hawking I relished in the tranquility of birds, chanting monks and fragrant flowers. There is nothing all that noteworthy of the town itself, other than it caters to the traveler exploring Cambodia. One can find all sorts of cuisine, bars, galleries, shops and massage parlors. At this point on my trip, I wanted none of that. I wrapped up the day with a hike up to Phnom Bakheng and to catch the sunset. Unfortunately, I wasn't the only one with the same idea. Crowds aside, Phnom Bakheng was another interesting crumbling structure that was being painfully restored. It was built by Yasovarman I and was one of many wats that were built to mimic the mythical Mt. Meru. While the sun set, it hid behind clouds for most of its show rendering money shot photos impossible. Unable to view a proper sunset, I started hiking back down in an attempt to beat the crowds. I hopped back into my tuktuk and went back to the resort to clean up and feast on their amazing version of Fish Amok. Steamed perfectly in banana leaves with herbs and spices it was worth the thirty minute wait. To round out the meal I had the best rice and banana pudding I have ever had. Sweet, pasty and warm, it was a real treat.
Day two started earlier than day one with another fine breakfast in the restaurant. Fresh fruit, pancakes and freshly squeezed orange juice prepared me for my day. Eager to see Angkor Thom, I got into my tuktuk for another days of "watting around." Angkor Thom is a ten square kilometer fortified city built by Javayarman VII in the twelfth century and basically took all day to visit. I visited Bayon, the structure covered in 216 smiling faces said to represent the King himself. At every turn, there's a face to greet you and approvingly guide you throughout your exploration of the Bayon. Next up was Baphuon, Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King. All sites were of incredible proportion and represented the grand architecture of the period. After a much needed lunch break and cool down, I continued my "watting" with visits to Preah Khan, Preah Neak Pean and Pre rup. Feeling extremely watted out, it was time to call it a day. I guess you could say I was slightly overwhelmed. It was incredibly hot and all the sites started to look the same and I found myself starting to feel like I was just going through the motions. The day ended with another incredible meal at the Palm Village. In keeping with my desire to sample as much local Khmer cuisine I had a traditional feast of noodles, soup and vegetables.
Day three started at 5am with a tuktuk ride in the dark to Angkor Wat. Today was the day that all my "watting" was building up to. It began with the most breathtaking sunrise over Angkor Wat. For some silly reason I under estimated the eagerness of all the travelers to Angkor. I thought for sure I would be one of only a few to crazily get up at such an hour just to see a sunrise. Well, I was wrong. While the crowds were not the worst I'd seen, there were more people than I was expecting. Thankfully, I had arrived by 530am and I was able to get a good vantage point. While we waited, the flashbulbs were flashing as people prepared for the main event. Around me a Japanese man thought he was scoring a prime viewing spot. He soon realized why nobody was there. It was where an army of ants decided hang out and they showed him who was there first! For 45 minutes while we waited for the sun to rise, monks at a nearby monastery provided unintended entertainment for the crowd. Another piece of entertainment for me was just to watch the crowd. The countries represented were numerous and it was interesting to watch the excitement on the faces of the travelers. It was also exiting to watch the bizarre things people do when in a crowded setting.
The sun was fully up by 7am and most of the crowds had dispersed. I took this opportunity to go inside Angkor Wat and view it with minimal travelers bustling about. Angkor Wat is a grand structure and considered the heart and soul of Cambodia. It appears on the Cambodian flag, which interestingly, is the only flag in the world that has a man made structure on it. Angkor Wat was never abandoned and has been in some form of continuous use since it was built in the twelfth century. By 8am I was heading back to my bed for breakfast and a nap. After relaxing, sorting out some details for my onward journey into Thailand and a hearty lunch, it was time to resume my watting. I realized I hadn't paid a visit to Ta Prohm, the crumbling structure strangled by the jungle made famous by the movie Tomb Raider, starring Angelina Jolie. Wandering around here I couldn't help but feel like Indiana Jones on some great adventure set in the middle of the jungles of Cambodia. Finally, in a quest to achieve great photos of Angkor Wat and now that the lighting would be favorable for such frontal photos I headed back to the grande dame of Wats. Unfortunately, since it was the dry season I wasn't able to capture the reflection photos I had in mind. Also, a thunderstorm was approaching, rendering the sky black and grey. As the wind picked up, I attempted to capture as many quality pictures as I could and as put my camera away and stepped out through the entrance, the heavens unloaded and it started to pour. I headed back to the resort to relax for the rest of the afternoon until dinner enjoying a full body massage by the pool. Dinner was another traditional Khmer dish of fish curry with rice. Once again, amazing.
Morning came quickly and I was on my way to the airport for my flight to Thailand, the land of smiles. As I reflect on my visit to Cambodia I can't help but be encouraged by the optimism the people portray. The tumultuous history in Cambodia has shaped its people and today, despite their dark history are looking to the future as their country continues to develop. The ancient structures that I visited were a reminder of the periods of glory throughout the centuries and the ingenuity, resourcefulness and intelligence of the people. Hopefully todays Cambodia can embrace those traits and press on into the future and find its footing on the world stage.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Good bye Vietnaaaam!
We arrived in a cold and misty Hanoi at 430am. We wandered the streets finding a place to stay for the day, finally ending up at a hostel at 530am. It was a lucky moment as 8 Aussies were checking out, as we were walking by. Otherwise, we would have had to wait until at least 8am for most places to open. A nice nap was had and we were soon sipping coffee and eating croissant at yet another French patisserie. If the French did anything right in Vietnam, it was leave their stamp on the cuisine and architecture. After sorting out a few formalities for our onward travels we visited Hoa Lo prison, otherwise known as the "Hanoi Hilton." I had visited this museum on my last trip to Vietnam but a subsequent visit was worthwhile. It's always difficult to see propaganda that is negatively directed towards your own country. Not to mention, the gross inaccuracies and misrepresented events that go uncontested. I guess I enjoy learning the whole story and not just a one sided biased account. The museum is found in only part of the original structure. The rest of the building was razed at one point to make way for an ugly apartment block.
All good things must come to an end. After two weeks of travel it was time to part ways with my friends. I headed to Cambodia and they left for the States via Hong Kong. But first, we would have to deal with unexpected rush hour traffic and a taxi scam in the making. We got to the airport 20 minutes before my flight was to depart. We bailed from that taxi so fast, the guy could barely execute his scam! See, we agreed on 300,000 Vietnam Dong ($15) with another driver and then bizarrely switched to another one who would continue the drive to the airport. Fully expecting to get fleeced, we executed a grab and go maneuver that saw us escaping quickly from the taxi before he could even say "you pay me now." We said a hasty good-bye and then I was THAT guy. The crazy person running through the airport as if the world is obliged to share in the misery of my lack of planning. Thankfully, I had checked-in online, printed my boarding pass and there was nobody in line for either immigration or security. The boarding door closed behind me and I was underway to Siem Reap, Cambodia to explore the wonders of the Temples of Angkor.
All good things must come to an end. After two weeks of travel it was time to part ways with my friends. I headed to Cambodia and they left for the States via Hong Kong. But first, we would have to deal with unexpected rush hour traffic and a taxi scam in the making. We got to the airport 20 minutes before my flight was to depart. We bailed from that taxi so fast, the guy could barely execute his scam! See, we agreed on 300,000 Vietnam Dong ($15) with another driver and then bizarrely switched to another one who would continue the drive to the airport. Fully expecting to get fleeced, we executed a grab and go maneuver that saw us escaping quickly from the taxi before he could even say "you pay me now." We said a hasty good-bye and then I was THAT guy. The crazy person running through the airport as if the world is obliged to share in the misery of my lack of planning. Thankfully, I had checked-in online, printed my boarding pass and there was nobody in line for either immigration or security. The boarding door closed behind me and I was underway to Siem Reap, Cambodia to explore the wonders of the Temples of Angkor.
Hue, Vietnam.
We arrived in a misty and cool Hue in search of lodging. We settled, after looking and bargaining at several hotels, on a $12/night hotel that would prove sketchy. It seemed decent enough at first glance. Cafe on Thu Wheels was our "local" for Hue. They serve Hue specialties, have a great atmosphere, arrange tours of the city and DMZ and has its walls covered in travelers sentiments on their enthusiasm towards the Cafe. We signed up for a moto tour of Hue, with Minh, one of the proprietors and tour guide.
Morning arrived too soon after a chilly night with no blankets and we rolled over to the Cafe for our tour along with breakfast. The weather was a little cool so we opted for a car tour at noon instead. In the meantime explored some of the surrounding area and joined up with Minh a short time later. We visited the Japanese Bridge, near Hue which was built over 300 years ago and is still standing in its original wooden form (allegedly) despite wars, flooding and weather. Next we visited the Pagoda and adjacent monastery where one can find the actual car, a monk drove down to Saigon and then subsequently set himself on fire out of protest. That's what I call devotion to a cause! The afternoon was spent at the Citadel and forbidden Purple City, where we had a very forgettable lunch of over priced Pho. After the Citadel, we proceeded to visit several tombs of ancient Vietnamese Emperors. The last one, apparently had 104 wives, none of which bore him a child. Tough break and talk about pressure for wife #104! The evening was rounded out with a visit to the top rated restaurant in Hue, which was good, but certainly not OUR top rated restaurant. We followed that with a tasty Indian snack and ended the evening with a wild night at the Cafe. What goes on at Cafe on Thu Wheels, stays there.
We discovered a French patisserie for coffee and breakfast this morning and relaxed there all morning. The rest of the day was a slow paced day without much on the agenda. Lunch was had at Ninas, another top rated restaurant in the city. It proved elusive the previous night, but finally found it for lunch! It turns out it was very close to the Cafe and had been near it every night. We then, took a river boat cruise and wandered the city and finally got massages at a nice little spa where the locals go. I think my masseuse took pity on my gnarled leg and gave half her effort. The old ladies three times her age in Bangkok were much better! We rounded out the evening back at Ninas, for more of her good food and friendly service.
The final day in Hue found us again, at the French Patisserie. The place actually provides jobs and baking classes to Vietnamese kids in need and then helps them find a forward path in life. A great organization with great food! We'd be leaving on a night train to Hanoi this afternoon so we did a little shopping for the journey. While we were packing up, I realized that $75 was missing from my bag. It appears that our bags were pilfered at some point while we were gone. I guess it was foolish to not have taken better precaution. $20 was taken from my buddy as well. So, the $12/night rooms basically turned out to be $36/night. In the grand scheme of things, it's only money. We weren't roughed up or pillaged. It's the principle of the matter!
Soon we boarded our night train for Hanoi which was actually quite pleasant. The 11 hour journey seemed to pass quickly. Good company, good music, new train friends and a 6 hour slumber made the ride effortless.
Morning arrived too soon after a chilly night with no blankets and we rolled over to the Cafe for our tour along with breakfast. The weather was a little cool so we opted for a car tour at noon instead. In the meantime explored some of the surrounding area and joined up with Minh a short time later. We visited the Japanese Bridge, near Hue which was built over 300 years ago and is still standing in its original wooden form (allegedly) despite wars, flooding and weather. Next we visited the Pagoda and adjacent monastery where one can find the actual car, a monk drove down to Saigon and then subsequently set himself on fire out of protest. That's what I call devotion to a cause! The afternoon was spent at the Citadel and forbidden Purple City, where we had a very forgettable lunch of over priced Pho. After the Citadel, we proceeded to visit several tombs of ancient Vietnamese Emperors. The last one, apparently had 104 wives, none of which bore him a child. Tough break and talk about pressure for wife #104! The evening was rounded out with a visit to the top rated restaurant in Hue, which was good, but certainly not OUR top rated restaurant. We followed that with a tasty Indian snack and ended the evening with a wild night at the Cafe. What goes on at Cafe on Thu Wheels, stays there.
We discovered a French patisserie for coffee and breakfast this morning and relaxed there all morning. The rest of the day was a slow paced day without much on the agenda. Lunch was had at Ninas, another top rated restaurant in the city. It proved elusive the previous night, but finally found it for lunch! It turns out it was very close to the Cafe and had been near it every night. We then, took a river boat cruise and wandered the city and finally got massages at a nice little spa where the locals go. I think my masseuse took pity on my gnarled leg and gave half her effort. The old ladies three times her age in Bangkok were much better! We rounded out the evening back at Ninas, for more of her good food and friendly service.
The final day in Hue found us again, at the French Patisserie. The place actually provides jobs and baking classes to Vietnamese kids in need and then helps them find a forward path in life. A great organization with great food! We'd be leaving on a night train to Hanoi this afternoon so we did a little shopping for the journey. While we were packing up, I realized that $75 was missing from my bag. It appears that our bags were pilfered at some point while we were gone. I guess it was foolish to not have taken better precaution. $20 was taken from my buddy as well. So, the $12/night rooms basically turned out to be $36/night. In the grand scheme of things, it's only money. We weren't roughed up or pillaged. It's the principle of the matter!
Soon we boarded our night train for Hanoi which was actually quite pleasant. The 11 hour journey seemed to pass quickly. Good company, good music, new train friends and a 6 hour slumber made the ride effortless.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Hoi An, Vietnam.
We left at 715am and arrived at 500pm. We traveled from Cat Ba to Hoi An via Haiphong and Hanoi. The prolonged journey time was well worth the wait, as we were to discover the jewel that Hoi An is in Vietnam's crown.
Since I'm so far behind in my day by day entries, I'll just cover our time in Hoi An in one entry. Hands down, this was my favorite place to have seen in now, two visits to Vietnam. We experienced the nicest people and the best food during our two weeks in Vietnam.
Our first night was spent finding a place to stay and exploring the nightlife of the city. Hoi An is known for its cuisine and on the must eat list was Cao Lao and White Rose. Cao lao is a noodle dish with a special sauce, vegetables and rice paper chips. White rose reminded me of a shrimp siu mai with a sweet and tangy sauce drizzled over it. Our introduction to these Hoi An specialties proved great and then so did our new friends at the restaurant that we had this meal. The Vietnamese are very social, despite the typical language barrier. Our new friend "Bi" and her colleagues at the restaurant were great hosts. We enjoyed attempting to learn Vietnamese from them and I think they also got a kick out of chatting with us and sharing their local treats of dried watermelon seeds and corn in hot sauce.
Morning greeted us with sleeping in, sunshine and the best chocolate croissant I've ever had outside of Paris. This particular day we rented bikes and rode up and down the coast looking at the beach before finding a great recommended "locals" restaurant perched on the beach. Wow... another incredible meal! We feasted on fresh spring rolls with shrimp, clams stewed in lemon grass chili broth as well as steamed prawns in banana leaf. My Mom is right... food tastes extra good at the beach! We watched the afternoon fade away as the sun sank lower on the horizon as we luxuriated on the beach, beer in hand. The evening meal was had at "Cafe 43" a highly recommended dining option by guide books and travelers alike. We were actually a little leery, since we were trying to go for a more local and less touristy experience. We dined on their version of Cao Lao, Stuffed Squid with pork and chicken with chili and lemon grass. The squid was the star of the night. 30 Bia Hoi's later, we left with the feeling the place lived up to the hype. Friendly atmosphere, gracious hosts and cheap great food. Cafe 43 is a stop worth making.
The following day was a leisurely day. Well, more leisurely than all our other leisurely days. We slept in, had another nice breakfast by the pool and set out for the day around noon. This time, we traveled by foot and explored the old city of Hoi An. We dined on some good Ban My Thit (pork sandwiches). So good in fact, we had seconds. We wandered the market, had fun bargaining and continued to explore the old city. Cafe 43 was so good, we had dinner again on this night. But first, we stopped at a street restaurant for some Bun Thit (cold grilled pork noodle salad.) It seems as though we closed down Cafe 43 in the wee hours of the morning. I think the hint was the owner falling asleep in his PJs at a nearby table.
Road rash. That was the theme of the day. Another first for me on this trip was riding a moped. We intended on riding them out to My Son, to look at the ruins, but instead rode them up and down the beach, thanks to me. Why? Because in the first five minutes of riding the bike, I crashed it. In a busy intersection. With an audience. Yeah me! Okay... so I'm not a complete idiot. I was cut off by a dude on another moped who was making a left turn, from my right! So, there I went, crashing to the pavement for all to see. All I could think about was that there better not be a bus or truck behind me! Thank goodness, it was one of my buddies and I was not run over by an overloaded goods truck or a family on a moto. I did however, jump right back up, got out of the intersection and swallowed my pride. A witness in the cafe across the street came to my aid and helped me clean my wounds as we laughed and sipped on Cafe Fin. My knee down to the top of my foot was awash in road rash and minor gashes and scrapes. Thankfully, nothing worse. Though, as I write this, several days after the incident, I have some colorful bruising all over my leg! Oh well, it adds color. After a proper clean up and change of clothes, we set out, undaunted to explore the coast. We were also able to meet up with a buddy of mine who flies as a pilot at Vietnam Airlines who was in Danang for the day. We returned to our new favorite beach-side restaurant and had more great food. Not as great as the previous time, but cheap and good none the less.
That evening we dined at "Morning Glory" which is the restaurant owned by the same woman that owns the hotel we stayed at. It was our "splurge" meal for the trip, which included a bottle of wine and several dishes and it totaled $40 for three people. We feasted on shrimp mousse on sugar cane sticks, clay pot fish, spring rolls Hoi An style, fried tofu with chili jam, caramelized pork, Hoi An style Pho, duck breast and banana flower salad. Hands down, the best meal in Vietnam!
The next day found us leisurely waking to more breakfast by the pool, sorting out the details of our departure and the best Ban My ever! I think Anthony Bourdain dined at this food stall at the Hoi An market. It was incredible. Crunchy French bread, perfectly seasoned pork, fresh herbs, chili and pate make for an east meets west concoction that was out of this world! We bid adieu to Hoi An as we made our way to Danang where we boarded our train to Hue.
Since I'm so far behind in my day by day entries, I'll just cover our time in Hoi An in one entry. Hands down, this was my favorite place to have seen in now, two visits to Vietnam. We experienced the nicest people and the best food during our two weeks in Vietnam.
Our first night was spent finding a place to stay and exploring the nightlife of the city. Hoi An is known for its cuisine and on the must eat list was Cao Lao and White Rose. Cao lao is a noodle dish with a special sauce, vegetables and rice paper chips. White rose reminded me of a shrimp siu mai with a sweet and tangy sauce drizzled over it. Our introduction to these Hoi An specialties proved great and then so did our new friends at the restaurant that we had this meal. The Vietnamese are very social, despite the typical language barrier. Our new friend "Bi" and her colleagues at the restaurant were great hosts. We enjoyed attempting to learn Vietnamese from them and I think they also got a kick out of chatting with us and sharing their local treats of dried watermelon seeds and corn in hot sauce.
Morning greeted us with sleeping in, sunshine and the best chocolate croissant I've ever had outside of Paris. This particular day we rented bikes and rode up and down the coast looking at the beach before finding a great recommended "locals" restaurant perched on the beach. Wow... another incredible meal! We feasted on fresh spring rolls with shrimp, clams stewed in lemon grass chili broth as well as steamed prawns in banana leaf. My Mom is right... food tastes extra good at the beach! We watched the afternoon fade away as the sun sank lower on the horizon as we luxuriated on the beach, beer in hand. The evening meal was had at "Cafe 43" a highly recommended dining option by guide books and travelers alike. We were actually a little leery, since we were trying to go for a more local and less touristy experience. We dined on their version of Cao Lao, Stuffed Squid with pork and chicken with chili and lemon grass. The squid was the star of the night. 30 Bia Hoi's later, we left with the feeling the place lived up to the hype. Friendly atmosphere, gracious hosts and cheap great food. Cafe 43 is a stop worth making.
The following day was a leisurely day. Well, more leisurely than all our other leisurely days. We slept in, had another nice breakfast by the pool and set out for the day around noon. This time, we traveled by foot and explored the old city of Hoi An. We dined on some good Ban My Thit (pork sandwiches). So good in fact, we had seconds. We wandered the market, had fun bargaining and continued to explore the old city. Cafe 43 was so good, we had dinner again on this night. But first, we stopped at a street restaurant for some Bun Thit (cold grilled pork noodle salad.) It seems as though we closed down Cafe 43 in the wee hours of the morning. I think the hint was the owner falling asleep in his PJs at a nearby table.
Road rash. That was the theme of the day. Another first for me on this trip was riding a moped. We intended on riding them out to My Son, to look at the ruins, but instead rode them up and down the beach, thanks to me. Why? Because in the first five minutes of riding the bike, I crashed it. In a busy intersection. With an audience. Yeah me! Okay... so I'm not a complete idiot. I was cut off by a dude on another moped who was making a left turn, from my right! So, there I went, crashing to the pavement for all to see. All I could think about was that there better not be a bus or truck behind me! Thank goodness, it was one of my buddies and I was not run over by an overloaded goods truck or a family on a moto. I did however, jump right back up, got out of the intersection and swallowed my pride. A witness in the cafe across the street came to my aid and helped me clean my wounds as we laughed and sipped on Cafe Fin. My knee down to the top of my foot was awash in road rash and minor gashes and scrapes. Thankfully, nothing worse. Though, as I write this, several days after the incident, I have some colorful bruising all over my leg! Oh well, it adds color. After a proper clean up and change of clothes, we set out, undaunted to explore the coast. We were also able to meet up with a buddy of mine who flies as a pilot at Vietnam Airlines who was in Danang for the day. We returned to our new favorite beach-side restaurant and had more great food. Not as great as the previous time, but cheap and good none the less.
That evening we dined at "Morning Glory" which is the restaurant owned by the same woman that owns the hotel we stayed at. It was our "splurge" meal for the trip, which included a bottle of wine and several dishes and it totaled $40 for three people. We feasted on shrimp mousse on sugar cane sticks, clay pot fish, spring rolls Hoi An style, fried tofu with chili jam, caramelized pork, Hoi An style Pho, duck breast and banana flower salad. Hands down, the best meal in Vietnam!
The next day found us leisurely waking to more breakfast by the pool, sorting out the details of our departure and the best Ban My ever! I think Anthony Bourdain dined at this food stall at the Hoi An market. It was incredible. Crunchy French bread, perfectly seasoned pork, fresh herbs, chili and pate make for an east meets west concoction that was out of this world! We bid adieu to Hoi An as we made our way to Danang where we boarded our train to Hue.
How long to Ha long?
The morning started out with our now familiar and ever so gentle wake up call by Mrs. Propoganda. No longer as jarring as she once was, we managed to sleep through most of her screeching, but still awoke in time to arrange our day tour of Ha Long bay. We pile onto our "junk" boat and after a stop for fuel at the floating fuel station, we were underway. It was about the 45 minute mark, freezing cold getting wind blown when I wondered to myself what the heck we were doing and how long it would be to get to Ha Long! But, for $17 for the entire day including lunch we soldiered on.
The weather warmed up and so did our junk mates and the prospects of having a great day started looking up. We kayaked again and took in more of the limestone karste formations. The scenery of course, didn't disapoint and before we knew it, lunch was being served. It is absolutely incredible what kind of spread can be turned out of a tiny postage stamp sized boat galley. And here we are whining on HGTV about double vanities, granite counter tops and stainless steel restaurant quality deep freezes when they're not available during a home search. I digress. This meal, of squid and pineapple, fried fish, spring rolls, stir fried cabbage and rice was terrific. It went on to prove our theory that we were only destined for great food if we were apart of a tour. We got to know our junk mates and fellow travelers. The French, Vietnamese, Swiss, American, Mexican, German and Brits were represented. Some kept to themselves, others socialized. We soon began to swap travel stories and got more comfortable with our new friends.
After lunch we continued into Ha Long bay and were joined by larger junk boats that set sail earlier that morning from Ha Long City. Part of the reason why we spent our time in Cat Ba, was to avoid the major tourist crush and in retrospect, we made the right move. Our experience was more personalized, unique and only slightly touristy. We made the obligatory visit to the "Surprise Cave" and I was indeed surprised. Not by the "surprise" that was waiting for the visitor, but by how it was actually kind of neat and not nearly as cheesy as I first anticipated. Shame of me to prejudge.
The cruise back included a stop on Monkey Island, where we had lunch the day before. This time, we disembarked and enjoyed the view. Some thought it would be fun to taunt the monkeys by engaging them and dangling things to get them to scamper towards them. After my brush with a monkeys fangs in India, I'm not exactly a huge fan. I did however, get some great pictures and found a little enjoyment in watching the others get too close.
The final leg of the journey seemed to take forever and the temperatures started to drop. As the sun started to set on La Han bay, so did a fantastic day that had a questionable beginning. A predictably bad meal was had, once again, but at least the company was good, which included some new friends from our junk cruise we dubbed the Carnies. The next day would find us on an all day journey to central Vietnam.
-
The weather warmed up and so did our junk mates and the prospects of having a great day started looking up. We kayaked again and took in more of the limestone karste formations. The scenery of course, didn't disapoint and before we knew it, lunch was being served. It is absolutely incredible what kind of spread can be turned out of a tiny postage stamp sized boat galley. And here we are whining on HGTV about double vanities, granite counter tops and stainless steel restaurant quality deep freezes when they're not available during a home search. I digress. This meal, of squid and pineapple, fried fish, spring rolls, stir fried cabbage and rice was terrific. It went on to prove our theory that we were only destined for great food if we were apart of a tour. We got to know our junk mates and fellow travelers. The French, Vietnamese, Swiss, American, Mexican, German and Brits were represented. Some kept to themselves, others socialized. We soon began to swap travel stories and got more comfortable with our new friends.
After lunch we continued into Ha Long bay and were joined by larger junk boats that set sail earlier that morning from Ha Long City. Part of the reason why we spent our time in Cat Ba, was to avoid the major tourist crush and in retrospect, we made the right move. Our experience was more personalized, unique and only slightly touristy. We made the obligatory visit to the "Surprise Cave" and I was indeed surprised. Not by the "surprise" that was waiting for the visitor, but by how it was actually kind of neat and not nearly as cheesy as I first anticipated. Shame of me to prejudge.
The cruise back included a stop on Monkey Island, where we had lunch the day before. This time, we disembarked and enjoyed the view. Some thought it would be fun to taunt the monkeys by engaging them and dangling things to get them to scamper towards them. After my brush with a monkeys fangs in India, I'm not exactly a huge fan. I did however, get some great pictures and found a little enjoyment in watching the others get too close.
The final leg of the journey seemed to take forever and the temperatures started to drop. As the sun started to set on La Han bay, so did a fantastic day that had a questionable beginning. A predictably bad meal was had, once again, but at least the company was good, which included some new friends from our junk cruise we dubbed the Carnies. The next day would find us on an all day journey to central Vietnam.
-
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
Bus, bus, boat, bus.
Oh, by the way... it was fried pork skin.
Today we had anticipated an 1120am bus to start our journey to Cat Ba Island. False alarm. "Happy New Year, Tet, 1120 bus no more." Okay, so we kill two hours by eating the best street Pho thus far in the trip. Finally, at 120pm,. we were on our way. Bus, bus, boat and bus later we arrve at Cat Ba island at 530pm. The night was spent looking for a hotel and food.
Three firsts for me on this day. First, an unsolicited alarm clock, far too early, by a ridiculously loud recording of what seemed to be propoganda. It blared, screechingly from the speakers right infront of our hotel. Second and third, a motor-bike ride and kayaking. We hailed Xe Om's and sat on the back of the bike to get taken to our adventure store office, Blue Swimmer. Upon deliberation over some more Pho, this time, Pho Ga, we decided on a day kayaking trip around La Han bay. What an experience! I had never kayaked before and now have discovered something really fun. We kayaked with our guide, Den who guided us through the rock formations in the bay. His whistling and singing Vietnamese folk tunes echoed off the rocks. It was one of the most serene and tranquil experiences I have ever had. 4 guys, calm emerald green water and clean air. Not another tourist in sight. Just the occasional oyster farmer or grouper fisherman.
We had lunch, quite a feast I might add on "Monkey Island." Our post lunch resumption of our kayaking adventure was a little bit slower due to our post feast mini comas. We continued to navigate throughout the bay and floating fishing villages complete with sattelite TV, guard dogs and floating grocery stores. Alas, all good things must come to an end and we paddled back into the little city, Bun Beo where we started our adventure earlier in the day.
The evening was spent attempting to find acceptable food for dinner consumption in Cat Ba city. Fail, again! Fatigued from our kayaking and being woken early by Mrs. Propaganda, we called it an early evening. On the agenda for the next day is another early start and a day cruise back through Lan Ha bay up into Ha Long bay to see more of this World Heritage sight.
Today we had anticipated an 1120am bus to start our journey to Cat Ba Island. False alarm. "Happy New Year, Tet, 1120 bus no more." Okay, so we kill two hours by eating the best street Pho thus far in the trip. Finally, at 120pm,. we were on our way. Bus, bus, boat and bus later we arrve at Cat Ba island at 530pm. The night was spent looking for a hotel and food.
Three firsts for me on this day. First, an unsolicited alarm clock, far too early, by a ridiculously loud recording of what seemed to be propoganda. It blared, screechingly from the speakers right infront of our hotel. Second and third, a motor-bike ride and kayaking. We hailed Xe Om's and sat on the back of the bike to get taken to our adventure store office, Blue Swimmer. Upon deliberation over some more Pho, this time, Pho Ga, we decided on a day kayaking trip around La Han bay. What an experience! I had never kayaked before and now have discovered something really fun. We kayaked with our guide, Den who guided us through the rock formations in the bay. His whistling and singing Vietnamese folk tunes echoed off the rocks. It was one of the most serene and tranquil experiences I have ever had. 4 guys, calm emerald green water and clean air. Not another tourist in sight. Just the occasional oyster farmer or grouper fisherman.
We had lunch, quite a feast I might add on "Monkey Island." Our post lunch resumption of our kayaking adventure was a little bit slower due to our post feast mini comas. We continued to navigate throughout the bay and floating fishing villages complete with sattelite TV, guard dogs and floating grocery stores. Alas, all good things must come to an end and we paddled back into the little city, Bun Beo where we started our adventure earlier in the day.
The evening was spent attempting to find acceptable food for dinner consumption in Cat Ba city. Fail, again! Fatigued from our kayaking and being woken early by Mrs. Propaganda, we called it an early evening. On the agenda for the next day is another early start and a day cruise back through Lan Ha bay up into Ha Long bay to see more of this World Heritage sight.
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