I knew as soon as the door opened to my Vietnam Airlines Airbus 320 that the mild temperatures of Vietnam were a thing of the past. As I made my way down the stairs the humidity was ever apparent and so was the heat. It was great.
The pre arranged car and driver from the Palm Villages Resort were waiting for my arrival. As we made our way to the resort in the dark, down unpaved dirt roads, I knew my lodging would be remote. I wasn't to realize exactly how remote until the following morning. Upon arrival I was greeted with smiles and warm greetings. A trend that would repeat itself not only at this resort, but throughout my entire stay in Cambodia.
I settled into my bamboo hut, complete with air conditioning, satellite TV and running water and couldn't help but feel lonely and a little bit blue. For the previous two weeks I had traveled Vietnam with two buddies that I barely knew at the start of the trip but in my estimation became fast friends with by the end of our travels together. There I sat, alone. It was a sinking feeling that I dread after having a great experience. I call it the "let down" feeling. I was only two weeks into my five weeks of travel, so I had to muster up the energy and ambition to press on with my travels. But hey, a guy can reminisce can't he?
After a much enjoyed sleep in, I awoke at 10am and rolled out of bed to the breakfast table. As it would repeat itself each morning, the tables were adorned with fresh flowers from the resorts garden. I dined on traditional Kmher rice porridge and while eating hot soup in hot weather wasn't the most comfortable of things, the food did not disappoint. Another thing that would repeat itself with great consistency. My plan was to visit the famous temples of Angkor throughout the course of three days starting with the earliest of temples leading up to the grand daddy of them all, Angkor Wat, deemed unofficially, the eighth wonder of the world. With my plan loosely prepared, I set out for my temple visits. My hired tuktuk driver drove me around for three days from wat to wat, dodging tourists, buffalos and cows. It's worth noting that tuktuks all over the world come in various forms. The ones in Cambodia are almost like a modern horse and buggy. The driver rides a motorcycle with a specially adapted hitch, in which the buggy portion, where the passenger sits is attached. Comfortable on paved roads and a jarring experience on unpaved roads.
The first day was spent exploring the Rulous group which were built in the late ninth century and represent the beginning of classical Khmer art. What amazed me is that for over eleven centuries of weather, war and pillaging these structures have maintained some sort of original appearance. Granted, the gold and ornaments are long gone, but while one walks about the ruins you can just imagine the daily activities at these great structures.
A much needed lunch break was needed and I headed into the town of Siem Reap. After dining on my first Amok, a traditional Khmer dish that comes in infinite forms, it was time to wander around the town. After about an hour, I was so glad I chose to stay at the Palm Villages resort. My bamboo hut was sheltered from the hustle, bustle and din of the tourist beat. Instead of horns, pollution and constant hawking I relished in the tranquility of birds, chanting monks and fragrant flowers. There is nothing all that noteworthy of the town itself, other than it caters to the traveler exploring Cambodia. One can find all sorts of cuisine, bars, galleries, shops and massage parlors. At this point on my trip, I wanted none of that. I wrapped up the day with a hike up to Phnom Bakheng and to catch the sunset. Unfortunately, I wasn't the only one with the same idea. Crowds aside, Phnom Bakheng was another interesting crumbling structure that was being painfully restored. It was built by Yasovarman I and was one of many wats that were built to mimic the mythical Mt. Meru. While the sun set, it hid behind clouds for most of its show rendering money shot photos impossible. Unable to view a proper sunset, I started hiking back down in an attempt to beat the crowds. I hopped back into my tuktuk and went back to the resort to clean up and feast on their amazing version of Fish Amok. Steamed perfectly in banana leaves with herbs and spices it was worth the thirty minute wait. To round out the meal I had the best rice and banana pudding I have ever had. Sweet, pasty and warm, it was a real treat.
Day two started earlier than day one with another fine breakfast in the restaurant. Fresh fruit, pancakes and freshly squeezed orange juice prepared me for my day. Eager to see Angkor Thom, I got into my tuktuk for another days of "watting around." Angkor Thom is a ten square kilometer fortified city built by Javayarman VII in the twelfth century and basically took all day to visit. I visited Bayon, the structure covered in 216 smiling faces said to represent the King himself. At every turn, there's a face to greet you and approvingly guide you throughout your exploration of the Bayon. Next up was Baphuon, Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King. All sites were of incredible proportion and represented the grand architecture of the period. After a much needed lunch break and cool down, I continued my "watting" with visits to Preah Khan, Preah Neak Pean and Pre rup. Feeling extremely watted out, it was time to call it a day. I guess you could say I was slightly overwhelmed. It was incredibly hot and all the sites started to look the same and I found myself starting to feel like I was just going through the motions. The day ended with another incredible meal at the Palm Village. In keeping with my desire to sample as much local Khmer cuisine I had a traditional feast of noodles, soup and vegetables.
Day three started at 5am with a tuktuk ride in the dark to Angkor Wat. Today was the day that all my "watting" was building up to. It began with the most breathtaking sunrise over Angkor Wat. For some silly reason I under estimated the eagerness of all the travelers to Angkor. I thought for sure I would be one of only a few to crazily get up at such an hour just to see a sunrise. Well, I was wrong. While the crowds were not the worst I'd seen, there were more people than I was expecting. Thankfully, I had arrived by 530am and I was able to get a good vantage point. While we waited, the flashbulbs were flashing as people prepared for the main event. Around me a Japanese man thought he was scoring a prime viewing spot. He soon realized why nobody was there. It was where an army of ants decided hang out and they showed him who was there first! For 45 minutes while we waited for the sun to rise, monks at a nearby monastery provided unintended entertainment for the crowd. Another piece of entertainment for me was just to watch the crowd. The countries represented were numerous and it was interesting to watch the excitement on the faces of the travelers. It was also exiting to watch the bizarre things people do when in a crowded setting.
The sun was fully up by 7am and most of the crowds had dispersed. I took this opportunity to go inside Angkor Wat and view it with minimal travelers bustling about. Angkor Wat is a grand structure and considered the heart and soul of Cambodia. It appears on the Cambodian flag, which interestingly, is the only flag in the world that has a man made structure on it. Angkor Wat was never abandoned and has been in some form of continuous use since it was built in the twelfth century. By 8am I was heading back to my bed for breakfast and a nap. After relaxing, sorting out some details for my onward journey into Thailand and a hearty lunch, it was time to resume my watting. I realized I hadn't paid a visit to Ta Prohm, the crumbling structure strangled by the jungle made famous by the movie Tomb Raider, starring Angelina Jolie. Wandering around here I couldn't help but feel like Indiana Jones on some great adventure set in the middle of the jungles of Cambodia. Finally, in a quest to achieve great photos of Angkor Wat and now that the lighting would be favorable for such frontal photos I headed back to the grande dame of Wats. Unfortunately, since it was the dry season I wasn't able to capture the reflection photos I had in mind. Also, a thunderstorm was approaching, rendering the sky black and grey. As the wind picked up, I attempted to capture as many quality pictures as I could and as put my camera away and stepped out through the entrance, the heavens unloaded and it started to pour. I headed back to the resort to relax for the rest of the afternoon until dinner enjoying a full body massage by the pool. Dinner was another traditional Khmer dish of fish curry with rice. Once again, amazing.
Morning came quickly and I was on my way to the airport for my flight to Thailand, the land of smiles. As I reflect on my visit to Cambodia I can't help but be encouraged by the optimism the people portray. The tumultuous history in Cambodia has shaped its people and today, despite their dark history are looking to the future as their country continues to develop. The ancient structures that I visited were a reminder of the periods of glory throughout the centuries and the ingenuity, resourcefulness and intelligence of the people. Hopefully todays Cambodia can embrace those traits and press on into the future and find its footing on the world stage.
